In a tiny Slovenian hamlet tranquillity reigns and village life is still dominated by the seasonal routines-driving the sheep up to high pastures when the snows clear, the daily process of turning their milk into cheese, hay-making (the meadows need to be cut 4 times a year-usually by hand!), mushroom-picking in the autumn and tending abundant little vegetable gardens to ensure a supply of fresh greens throughout the year. This calm, pastoral scene is set beneath the stunning, limestone peaks of the Julian Alps, which soar dramatically above the villages and hamlets on the rolling wellmeadow country below.
The Julian Alps are the easternmost outpost of the Alpine range that stretches in a crescent across southern central Europe. They are named in honour of Julius Caesar (Cividale, just across the border in Italy, was founded by Caesar as Forum Iulii). The highest peak is Mount Triglav at 2, 864m and the beautiful emerald So
a River rises in the heart of the Julian Alps, cutting a serpentine valley southwards into Italy, where it becomes the Isonzo.
A unique feature of these mountains is that they formed the front line of what became known as the Isonzo Front, during World War One. Between 1915 and 1917, the Italians faced the Austro-Hungarians on a battlefield like no other-the peaks and ridges of the high Alps-and today, there is still a lot of fascinating evidence or that conflict in the shape of lines or trenches, caves dug into the mountainsides, and some poignant memorials to the fallen, high up near the peaks.
2007 marks the 90th anniversary of the Battle of Caporetto, which saw a combined Austro-Hungarian and German force overwhelm their Italian opposition at the town of Caporetto, in what is now Italy, and advance to within 70 miles of Venice. This breakthrough marked the culmination of 2½ years of bitter armed struggle amongst the formidable mountain peaks and high passes of the Julian Alps, where the awesome terrain made for supremely difficult conditions in which to fight.
Terrible terrain for battle undoubtedly, but the Julian Alps are majestic, soul-fortifying landscapes to walk through and explore in peacetime. And peace is what the friendly inhabitants or Kobarid (formerly Caporetto) and the surrounding villages enjoy in great abundance today.
The walking is superb, and very varied. One can stroll down through the woods, accompanied by birdsong and the sound of mountain streams tumbling over waterfalls hidden amongst the trees. In the valley, these streams join the rushing, turquoise-blue waters of the Soca.
It is a lovly River, tumbling over the rocks and hurtling through narrow defilés on the short journey to the Adriatic, while on the plateau above is beautiful, there is a tiny, frescoed chapel, beautiful waterfalls and flower-filled meadows. A walk on the slopes and saddles of the Julian Alps themselves invariably yields breathtaking views across the valley to Italy, or into the wild, empty expanse of the Triglav National Park. Occasionally, one stumbles across a collapsed trench or an overgrown gun-yard, high on a windy ridge, but nature's softening of the scars, and the sheep gently grazing on the gentians all around, are a reminder that there is more than a little truth in the adage "Pax Vincit Omnia '.
Slovenia has a very healthy population of wolves, lynx, and brown bears, although you are unlikely to meet any of them (the latter are said to have come north in large numbers to escape the upheavals following the break up or Yugoslavia-bears like a bit of peace and quiet). The forests are home to red deer, roe deer and wild boar, and in these mountains chamois and ibex can also be found. Pine and beech martens are present, as are hares, yellow jackets and foxes. There is wealth of bird-life, including grouse and black grouse, birds of prey (golden eagle, buzzard, hawk, white-tailed eagle), owls (tawny owl, Ural owl, long-eared owl and eagle owl) and woodpeckers (green, black and grey). If you walk in the woods after rain you are almost certain to see the spectacular gold and black mottled skin or a salamander.
Slovenia is home to some 3 000 plant species. The majority of the most interesting-of which 70 are endemic and so found only in Slovenia-are 'Alpines '. These include the purple Zois Bellflower, Wulfen's (pink) primrose, Triglav Hawksbeard and many others. Look out for the spectacular mountain lilies and numerous types of orchid. In general the climate and location contribute to lush meadow vegetation and varied deciduous woodland-characterized by well-managed beech forest.
The walking in this region is rewarding any time between May and October. In the spring, the upland meadows are thick with flowers, including many varieties of orchid, and snow lingers picturesquely on the mountain peaks. Summer can be hot, but the air is usually refreshing above 1500m and there are plenty of shady walks to choose from and cool mountain streams to paddle in. October offers crystal clear days and beautiful autumn colours.
There are plenty of activities available in the area. The So a River and its tributaries are superb for organised activities like white water rafting, canoeing, hydrospeed and canyoning. It is also possible to fish for the marbled trout which is unique to these waters. There are also tandem paragliding flights, horse-riding and mountain biking to be enjoyed. There is an open car-train from Most na So I to Bohinjska Bistrica, which enables you to visit the beautiful lakes or Bled and Bohinj for the day. The little town of Tolmin has a farmer's market on a Saturday, selling all manner of delicious seasonal treats, whilst a drive to the head of the So
a Valley really takes the breath away, culminating in 25 hair-pins to the Vr I
Pass. The small market town of Kobarid is home to an award-winning museum focusing on the battles of the WW1 Isonzo/So
a front. If you wish to venture across the border, you could spend the day in the charming Italian town of Cividale, with its medieval centre, Celtic hypogeum, Lombard temple, 15th C cathedral, and museums.
There are daily flights from the UK to Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia, and regular low-cost flights to Trieste (Italy) too, from where is it only 1 ½ hours drive on the border to the So
a River area.
Walking specialist tour operator Upland Escapes offer flexible holidays in the Julian Alps and Soca River area, based in a traditional rural village, in comfortable rooms with private bathrooms. They bring low impact sustainable tourism to the area and their knowledgeable local Manager will introduce you to the people and the magnificent walking in the region. They offer a combination of organised and self-guided walking to suit all ages and abilities, allowing each person to walk as much or as little as they like. They also provide a lavish daily packed lunch, a Handbook crammed with local information, and a hire-car (carbon neutral of course!) which allows the area to be explored fully with maximum independence.
Copyright-Laura Whinney
For further information on this and other Upland Escapes holidays in beautiful undiscovered upland regions of Europe, including in southern France, the French Pyrenees, Italy's Abruzzo region and Gran Canaria, please contact 01367 851 111 reservations@uplandescapes.com, email, or visit http://www.uplandescapes.com
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